Sunday, March 22, 2015

Fayence and around

FAYENCE AND AROUND


It's an unusual week for me. I am leaving the Côte d'Azur coast that I am so familiar with for the hills far above Cannes. The 'perched' villages of Fayence, Seillans and Caillans are in the Var, but only about 40 minutes away from Nice.

It's another world. Less hectic than the coast with a generous dash of  Provençal charm. These villages are very quiet at the moment, but will soon come to life as Spring arrives.



The trip is to show a client around with a good but modest budget. He wants a house, and with house prices on the coast so high, these small, charming inland villages are an incredible bargain by comparison. For the price of a two-bedroom apartment in Cannes, you can find a whole house with a pool in this neck of the woods.


After doing several research trips I am quite pleased to have discovered a new side to living here. After years of resisting going up the hill, I now think I may have found  an area that is not only beautiful and not far away, but also affordable. May it last!

 

Monday, March 3, 2014

St Jean Cap Ferrat

St Jean Cap Ferrat 

A story of Kings, mistresses and local councils


I love how one story can lead to another without it having been the original intention. It is like cooking a meal and then realising the  recipe is no longer what you set out to create, but you end up with something delicious nonetheless. So, thinking about a recent frustrating work experience in  St Jean Cap Ferrat has led me on another path altogether. 

First, apologies to my client who will be reading this as he does not need the original story retold! We are both still exasperated with St Jean Cap Ferrat Marie over a situation of pre-emption. Pre-emption is a peculiar French system whereby the local council decides to buy the property/land from under your nose once you have had an offer accepted. It is not common in urban areas for an apartment to be pre-empted, so most buyers in cities should not be concerned. In most cases it will involve empty plots of urban land (which the council can turn into something - be it a park, car park, recreational centre) or agricultural land (which a body called SAFER oversees and is intended to protect rural France). There is also a third option to do with tenants' rights. A long-term tenant in France has first option to buy the property they are living in if it comes up for sale.

My experience, thankfully, is rare on the Côte d'Azur. And I hope it will be my last. The reason given for pre-emption in this case was St Jean's need for 'social housing'. Do I believe this? No comment. But apparently my negotiation skills were too good, the price too keen and the Marie could not resist. It was just bad luck.



What I did stumble across, however (as I waded through reams of legal documents and case histories trying to find a solution to our pre-empt problem), is the story of King Leopold II  of  Belgium and his 16-year-old mistress Caroline Delacroix.  It was light-relief from all the legal work.  I had known about the King's connection to the Côte d'Azur, but had never read the story. The most recent news-worthy story about Leopold was that his original Villefranche estate  - the Villa Leopolda -  had been  bought by a Russian oligarch for a record €390 million in 2008. The Russian buyer later reneged on the deal and had to forfeit his €39 million deposit plus interest to the current owner.

The story of King Leopold and the Côte begins the end of the 19th Century when he arrived here and fell in love with the beauty of the coastline.  He began to buy up land, especially around St Jean Cap Ferrat. This was bought with blood money - the profits made from his cruel conquest of the Congo. His 16-year-old mistress Caroline Delacroix - a courtesan from Paris also known as Blanche Lacroix (the 'De' was added later to give her a more aristocratic air) - was settled in a villa on Plage Passable, now a popular St Jean beach. The villa is still there today.



Caroline is the more interesting story because, although she plays a back-seat in history, it shows the tenacity of a woman from humble beginnings who rose to become the mistress-wife of a King and (seemingly) manipulated the situation to ensure that she gained millions. Although she was no great beauty, Caroline was picked out for the King's pleasure. However, rather than a dalliance to be cast aside like his other mistresses, Caroline managed to capture the King's heart and remained with him until his death. They were married while on his deathbed (his unloved Queen having already died) although this was never formally recognised by the Belgium State. Caroline bore him two sons, neither of whom were officially acknowledged as legal heirs, yet most of the King's money and assets went to Caroline and their sons upon his death. This was highly contentious at the time as he had three legitimate daughters who were to all intents and purposes disinherited.

Not much  is known about Caroline's early life. She is thought to have been born in Romania in 1883, the daughter of a Frenchman. She later became a high-class prostitute in Paris, pimped by her lover Antoine Durrieux, a former Army Officer and gambler. She first encountered King Leopold, an aging man of 65, when she was 16.

When the King set Caroline up in the villa at Plage Passable in St Jean Cap Ferrat, she effectively became a prisoner in a gilded cage, Caroline would wait for the King - who was unhappily married - to make nocturnal visits. The grander estate in Villefrance later became one of her residences until, after Leopold's death, she was shut out by members of his family. Indeed, she was locked out from most of her homes across Europe after his death.

Caroline DelaCroix with her two sons


Caroline was hated by the King's family, the Belgium public and the European elite. She was jeeringly referred to as 'La reine du Congo' - in part because of the large sums of bonds, property and money given to her by the King acquired through his vicious exploitation of the African state and its people. Even by the standards of  the time, King Leopold shocked his fellow Western colonialists with  his brutality of the Congolese. The cutting off of hands being one of the less severe forms of punishment for workers (including children) who did not meet quotas on the rubber plantations.

It seems that in a bid to leave nothing to his legitimate daughters, King Leopold did his best to  unburden himself of money and assets during his final years, putting as much as he could in the name of Caroline and her sons, and spending what he could, including the purchase of big swathes of land in St Jean Cap Ferrat.

What is interesting, however, is that eight months after Leopold's death in 1909, and having returned to France (or fled, depending on the source), Caroline, now Baronesse de Vaughan - a title given to her by Leopold after the birth of their first son Lucien  - married her former lover/pimp Antoine Durrieux. Durrieux then officially legitimised her two sons.  Durrieux helped her after the King's death to claim her inheritance and to fight the legal battles with his daughters. Their short marriage ended in divorce in 1912 and he accepted  a handsome settlement. The trail of Caroline seems to go rather cold after this time. She never remarried and died in France in 1948.

It would seem, then, that Caroline remained in contact with her former lover Durrieux throughout her relationship with the King, which makes one wonder whether Leopold was the ultimate cuckold husband. Was Caroline's seeming devotion to the King perhaps a clever plot conceived by the two lovers who both knew it was just a matter of waiting for his death?

So a story of pre-emption in St Jean Cap Ferrat, becomes a story of Kings and mistresses mixed with a little intrigue. Even with my frustration over legal matters with St Jean, I'm happy to have uncovered some more history of this area. I will see Plage Passable with new eyes next time I visit and think a little of Caroline Delacroix. 







Friday, September 6, 2013

A dance around Cocteau's villa



The Villa Santo Sospir is one of those extraordinary finds one stumbles on in life if you are lucky.  Once the summer house of wealthy socialite  (and patron of the arts) Francine Weisweiller, Cocteau arrived at his friend's St Jean Cap Ferrat villa in 1950 and was immediately enchanted.

Over the course of a decade Cocteau proceeded to decorate (or tattoo as he described it) the walls, the ceilings, lampshades, the cupboards ... in fact anything he could lay his paintbrush and pens on.

As breath-taking as the view is from the house (perched delicately on the St Jean peninsula), the house itself is the real treasure. The walls are covered in the beautiful free-hand art of Cocteau. The interiors are a jumble of old furniture, bric-à-brac, photos and the odd sketch by Picasso. A glass cocktail cabinet stands open with rows of bottles. The old iron-wrought beds are made-up with starched worn linen. Leopard-print carpet designed by Cocteau lines the staircase to the lower floor. 

Everything is as if it were yesterday, with Cocteau and his friends enjoying summers on the terrace and a dip in the sea below. It's a dance back in time and a rare dance at that. 











Friday, August 9, 2013

French Riviera beaches

Beach life the egalitarian way on the Côte d'Azur

The topic 'beaches' seems to be a popular subject for readers of this blog. So since it is August, what better time for an update.

The Côte d'Azur is fortunate to have a stretch of coastline that meanders from wild rocky coves to golden sand. Having just returned from a holiday in Italy where almost the entire Ligurian coastline is organised in regimented beach huts and sun-beds, there is something appealing and free about coming back to the French Riviera. Maybe it is a hang-over from France's ethos of égalité, but there certainly seems to be more of an attitude that the beaches are for everyone, not just for those who will pay.

Two sides: Private and public at St Jean Cap Ferrat


Of course, if you want private beaches then the Côte d'Azur has plenty. From the hip Hi Beach in Nice (for the young and chic) to Paloma at St Jean Cap Ferrat (for the ... well, young and chic), to Bâoli in Cannes and Pampelonne in St Tropez, plage privée is a staple of life here. Private beaches start from around €20 (Nice's Plage Opera is one of the least expensive) and then rise steeply depending on the chic -metre. Count on around €30-40 per day for the sunbeds etc and then add food on top.

Beach beds in a row, St Jean Cap Ferrat

Private beaches have advantages. The private beaches along the Nice coastline tend to be sandy (having trucked in tonnes of sand just before the season). The rest of us have to develop hardened feet to cope with the stony public beaches of Nice, Beaulieu, St Jean et al. The private beaches have restaurants and bars on tap.  We bring picnics. In all honesty, we look upon the private beach dwellers as a bit sissy. What's a few stones?, we say as we hop over the blazing pebbles. If we really want moules marinière we can gatecrash their restaurants.
Sunset Plage Passable, St Jean Cap Ferrat

Plage Passable at St Jean Cap Ferrat is one of my favourite beaches. As the beautiful people lie back on sun-beds on one side of this small cove, the locals monpolise the other side. Stones are just part of the pleasure. We splash around in the sea, dive from the concrete pier, probably make too much noise, laugh too loudly, and bring our own food. They look over at us with envy - or at least I think that is what that look is.

So Vive Egalité! And remember, jellyfish sting everyone.

The pick of the best public beaches on the Côte d'Azur

St Tropez - it requires a short walk, but Plage des Graniers is a pretty cove surrounded by pine trees.

Cannes - Plage de L'Abreuvoir. Sandy and relaxed

Antibes - Plage de la Gravette. Town beach, easy to get to and wide so plenty of space

Nice - The best Nice city beaches are grouped near the Port and Hotel Negresco centre of town. Stoney but good for a dip after a hot day.

Villefranche - entirely public and more fine gravel than stone

Beaulieu - La Petite Afrique. low-key family beach

St Jean Cap Ferrat - Plage Pasable or the public beach next to the entrance to the SJCP Port

Eze - stony but generally not too crowded

Roquebrune Cap Matin - rocky, difficult to get to (you need to walk some distance) and where Corbusier built his beach 'cabanon' (beach house). Perfect.


Saturday, January 5, 2013

2013 COTE d'AZUR

A good year ahead on the French Riviera



There are many reasons to feel happy about living on the Côte d'Azur. However, sometimes I feel those of us who live here all-year round simply take it for granted. So, in the spirit of starting the year with positive thoughts, here are a few of my favourite things about Nice and the French Riviera generally.


  • Blue skies. We have around 300 days of sunshine a year
  • Sitting outside in mid-winter at a beach-side restaurant having moules and frites and drinking rosé
  • Every day seeing the Mediterranean sea from my terrace.
  • Coco beach in Nice - for afficionados only because of the rocks but the best place to sunbathe in the city
  • Driving along the Grande Corniche in an open-top car - the route of Grace Kelly and Cary Grant in To Catch a Thief
  • A walk along the beaches and coastline of St Jean Cap Ferrat
  • Knowing my local boulangerie bakes the best bread in the world in a wood-fired oven every day
  • Driving to Italy for the market at San Remo and having lunch
  • A swim at Villefranche in September when the crowds and jellyfish have gone
  • Going to the Cannes Film Festival and not being a tourist
  • Catching the tram to the market at Liberation in Nice - the best market in town
  • Going to the opera/ballet/classical concert in Monaco as if it were an everyday event
  • Enjoying not going to supermarkets for shopping - every day
  • Being able to wear summer clothes for around 9 months of the year (and also never feeling over-dressed. A girl can never have enough sparkle here)
  • The warmth (and wildness) of people who live here 


I could add many more things about living here but a list has to stop sometime. 
Happy NEW YEAR from the Côte d'Azur.

Wednesday, December 19, 2012